9 hours ago
As long as I can surf, I can SMILE EAR to EAR! Only because I have #northshoreprosthetics @makani_shapes believing in me more than I had originally believed in myself at times of recovery. Also the moment I met my Team @hawaiiadaptivesurfteam at the ISA World Championship in La Jolla, CA....I KNEW I FOUND MY TRIBE. Lately I haven’t surfed as much as can bc I’m working double bc I need to eat on this surf trip in May & waves been bad but now They’re TOO big lol. Right now it’s 5-8ft Hawaiian says Surfline, or is Surfline Universal size chart? Advice on that if can :/ But Hey if someone will shoot me from magic island I have no problem dropping in at home break Bowls and either “getting the shot” or “the over the falls while still grabbing rail” lol 😂LMK. I’m off to go see my boy Daryl Avelino in next few days and I feel like my other half just came thru, were both survivors and don’t take no for an answer, not even from the best of the best. He beat his eye cancer and I’m beating my amputation every day I paddle out. Regardless the outcome this year, I’m proud of my Sponsors & Myself. Thank you, you all know who you are! 🤘🏼🙏🏻 PS: That is a ARTIST...™️ I’m wearing that didn’t make it through the approval test so thought I’d rock it like I do every day I feel like a tiger 🐅 on da prowwwwwwl.